Newsletter

December 2006

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Sean clipping gear

Mixed Climbing Camp with Sean Isaac

December 16 & 17, 2006

Sean Isaac pursues the adventure and exploration aspect of climbing with a passion for new routes and traveling the world. He is the author of "Mixed Climbing in the Canadian Rockies" (Rocky Mountain Books) as well as the only instructional book dedicated solely to mixed climbing,  "Mixed Climbing" (Falcon Books).

Sean has established over 60 new mixed routes ranging from desperate single-pitch drytool roofs like Phyllis Diller (M11) to multi-pitch monstrosities like Cryophobia (V M8+ WI5+, 240m) with Shawn Huisman.

Book now and receive Sean's "MIXED CLIMBING"  book FREE.

Click here to find and book Mixed Climbing Camp

 

2006 Canmore Ice Climbing Festival

Yamnuska Mountain Adventures is pleased to be the presenting sponsor for the Canmore Ice Climbing Festival, December 7-10, 2006.

Skills clinics are Friday to Sunday and include guest instructors such as Rob Owens, Sean Isaac, Will Gadd, Innes Papert, Guy Lacelle, Shelly Huisman, and Sarah Hueniken.

The Grizzly Paw CICF Party is scheduled for Saturday night 9pm - 2am at the Creekside Hall, downtown Canmore.

Please visit: http://www.canmoreiceclimbingfestival.com

Holiday Stocking Stuffer Ideas

Yamnuska Nalgene One (1) Litre Water Bottles - NEW!

$9.75 ea

Grey / Black only

 

Yamnuska Gift Certificates available - $50, $100 or selected amount

Yamnuska Ceramic Coffee Mugs  - NEW!

$4.95 ea

White only

 

 

Tips & Techniques

 

Multiple Avalanche Burial Searches - Micro Search Strip Method

Yamnuska Mountain Adventures has adopted the micro search strip method for teaching multiple burial searches to students on our avalanche courses. The micro search strip method is a systematic search method used in avalanche multiple burial scenarios and works well for the wide variety of beacons that are available on the market today.

SET UP

Find a venue that is away from other people that might have beacons on and in a safe place. Don’t be tempted to use existing avalanche debris; stamp out an area 25 to 30m square to simulate avalanche debris.  Get two beacons, ensure they are transmitting, and then bury them wrapped in plastic bags at least 6m apart and no deeper than 50cm.  At this stage we want to perfect rather than confuse the system with beacons that are really close or very deep. This can come later when you have the basic system wired.  Put the beacons in the bottom of the hole and then place a target above it. This can be a plastic box lid or piece of plywood about 70cm by 50cm. The target simulates the victim when the probe is used. It also protects the beacon from over zealous probing and/or shoveling. Cover up the target with snow, stamp it down and then throw some more snow on top to hide it completely.

OVERVIEW

The search pattern will look like the image.  Strip widths are 3m to 4m wide. The search area is 25m to 30m square.

METHOD

Start at one of the corners. If you have a beacon with a volume control (e.g., Ortovox F1, M1, M2, SOS or Barryvox in analog mode) then 10 to 15 seconds can be spent listening and adjusting the volume control. By doing this it is possible to identify the number of beacons you are searching for as well as their approximate distances within the search area. Most digital beacons will indicate if there are multiple beacons but not necessarily how many there are or how far away they might be. Don’t rush this part of the exercise. Compare it to a first aid incident where a little time spent assessing the situation can make things far more efficient

Unlike an induction search, for the micro search strip to be effective it now becomes important to ignore the direction indicators and use the distance or audible signal only. The buried beacons are giving off numerous intersecting flux lines that are really difficult to follow using the induction method and often lead to searches just walking around in circles unsure of which signal to follow. Instead, think of using the beacon like a metal or mine detector and homing in on the target only when we get close to it.  You are now ready to start the micro search strip.

Beacons with a range/volume controls can be preset to a low setting and kept in the same orientation throughout the search (see table). You should carry a probe with you to locate the target as well as a marker for indicating where the first beacon was found. Proceed along one of the boundaries.  Strip widths are 3m to 4m wide. Comparing this distance to two ski lengths or two arm spans is a good visual clue for judging distances and keeps the strips more accurate. Try to keep the lines as straight and as parallel as possible.

Beacon

Range setting*

Start pinpoint search+

Ortovox

F1

2-8 m

Strong signal,  one light

M1, M2

2nd lowest

Strong signal,
< 6 m

X1

N/A

< 6 m

SOS

2nd lowest

Strong signal and light

Barryvox

Analog

A5

Strong signal

Digital

N/A

< 6 m

Tracker

N/A

< 6 m

Pieps DSP Advanced

N/A

< 6 m

Continue with the micro search strip until your beacons’ distance read-out, audio or lights indicate a burial nearby (see table).  You now proceed to a pinpoint search and the target is found using a systematic probing method.

We recommend the spiral or box probing system, with successive probes being 20 cm distance apart. This distance of 20cm is approximately a hand span from the tip of the thumb to the tip of the little finger, and gives another visual clue for accuracy.  When found, the target is marked, ideally by leaving the probe in. Ideally you should have two probes and leave one at the first strike as you continue looking for the second one. If you don’t have an extra probe mark this location with a ski pole, hat or glove. In a real rescue other searchers would now be coming in to shovel. In this exercise marking the location of the first beacon will help you avoid returning to that signal as you progress with the search.

Best of luck with your practice.  Questions?  Drop me an email.

Steve Blagbrough, Mountain Guide, stevie.b@yamnuska.com

 

 

In The News

 

 

We're Selling Gear - Yamnuska is now a new Petzl retailer

 

Yamnuska Mountain Adventures (YMA) is now an official Petzl climbing gear retailer.  A variety of climbing packages are being put together and are now available:

  • Start-up Package with harness, helmet, belay device & carabiner

  • Ice Climbing Package with harness, helmet, belay device, carabiners, technical ice tools & crampons

  • Mountaineering Package with harness, helmet, belay device, carabiners, mountaineering ice axe & crampons.

The website will shortly have a STORE section and more details will be available.  Additional package discounts are available when booking a YMA course or program.  For more info, please email gear@yamnuska.com.

 

A pause on the final run!   Dave Waag

Intro to Ski Mountaineering

"A summit on a crisp spring day, linking turns in powder back to the glacier below, new skills and knowledge that will give you the confidence to return on your own ski mountaineering adventures!"  These are some of the ingredients that make this one of the most enjoyable and valuable programs we offer.  Join us this spring for a week of fun and education on the spectacular Wapta Icefields!

Ski mountaineering skills training featuring: glacier travel, crevasse rescue, route finding, navigation, ski mountaineering equipment, trip planning, avalanche awareness. For Alpine and Telemark ski tourers.

Intro to Ski Mountaineering Course

 

 

 

Avalanche Safety Training Level 2 (AST2) - Rogers Pass

formerly Advanced Recreational Avalanche Course (ARAC)

 

Avalanche is the greatest hazard facing the backcountry skier. To fully enjoy backcountry skiing it's crucial to be able to understand the phenomena, to recognize the terrain where avalanches occur and to be able to find routes that minimize risk.

If you're a serious back country skier or winter mountaineer wishing to build a solid knowledge base so as to safely expand your back country horizons then this is the course for you. It will be a valuable investment in your mountain safety!

 

Avalanche Skills Training Level 2 (AST2)

 

 

Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

Suite 200 Summit Centre, 50 Lincoln Park
Canmore, Alberta, Canada T1W 1N8
toll free: 1 866 678 4164
tel.: +1 403 678 4164     Fax: +1 403 678 4450
E-mail: info@yamnuska.com

www.yamnuska.com  www.canadianrockieshiking.com