Bugaboo Spire Ascents
Routes Time Needed Season Costs Gear Rescue Insurance Booking Information
Bugaboo Spire is one of Canada's great peaks. Climbed in 1916 by Conrad Kain, it has been a treasured objective ever since. There are two classic routes. The S.E. Ridge, Kain's 1st ascent route still has a sting in its tail. Climbing the 5.7 slab on the Gendarme you'll wonder how he did it in hobnail boots. The N.E. ridge is one of the best lines on the continent.
Bugaboo Spire is surrounded by other spectacular spires, vertiginous Snowpatch is a little lower but has fantastic technical routes for rock climbers. The W. Ridge of Pigeon Spire is one of the most enjoyable technical scrambles to be found anywhere and the smaller Crescent Spires offer enjoyable climbing at every level.. Then there are the Howser Towers which dominate the entire group. One of the most famous climbs in the world, the Chouinard-Beckey route, is on the South Tower's west face.
This famed group of granite spires is found in the Purcell Mountains west of Canmore and Banff (3.5 hour drive) and can't be more highly recommended for those of you interested in high quality alpine rock climbing. It is served by an excellent alpine hut or you can camp in one of the most spectacular campgrounds known. This area is ideal for private and custom programs from 3 - 7 days. It is also a great place experience mountaineering with your kids ( 10 yrs. plus).
Climbing Routes & Maximum Guide Ratios
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Bugaboo Spire:
This famous and spectacular spire defines the area. Climb the
classic Kain Route (5.7) or N.E. Ridge (5.8) (1:2). -
Snowpatch Spire: Once thought unclimbable has many technical rock routes including the S.E. Corner (v. long 5.7), S.W. Corner (classic 5.9) and the Krauss-McCarthy (5.8) (1:2).
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Pigeon Spire: 3114m. No matter what your grade you have to do the W. Ridge which is surely one f the loveliest and enjoyable climbs out there (5.4) (1:3).
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East Post: 2590m. Located just above the hut, the West Ridge is a fun scramble (great with the kids) or more challenging by the S.E. Ridge (5.6) (1:4).
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Donkey's Ears: 2850m. A scramble up distinctive spires with an unlikely, airy finish (5.5) by the S.E. Ridge (1:3) or an enjoyable 6 pitch 5.7 climb by the S. Face ('Ears Between') (1:2).
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Crescent Spires: 2900m. A series of small spires behind the Donkey's Ears with some classic ridge climbing and some very nice multi-pitch rock routes such as Lions Way (5.6) and the McTech Arete (5.10) (1:3 - 1:2).
S. Howser Tower: c.3300m. W. Face Chouinard-Beckey line. This superb 22 pitch route is best done with one guide per guest and it usually takes two days with a bivvy. Surcharges apply to this climb for which you must be comfortable and speedy seconding 5.9 and the occasional 5.10 (1:1).
Time Needed:
You will need a minimum of 2 days though we would strongly recommend at
least 3. Of this time the 1st day will be taken in getting established
in the Bugaboos, either at the Conrad Kain Hut or at the Appleby Dome
Camp. It can be possible to do a climb of either Bugaboo Spire or
Snowpatch and hike out the same day though we advise against it as any
delay on the climb will make it very difficult to achieve.
We suggest at least 3 days. Day 1 for access, Day 2 for a bigger climb, Day 3 for a smaller climb and leave the area. The more time you have the more climbing you'll get done.
Pigeon Spire in the Bugaboos
Season:
Depending upon the vagaries of seasonal snow conditions it is usually possible to climb in the Bugaboos from late June until early September by when late summer snowfalls have often made technical climbs cold and icy. The optimum time is from early July to mid-August. In dry years the Bugaboo - Snowpatch Col, the easiest access route to Bugaboo Spire, can be threatened by rockfall by early August. When this happens it can limit which climbs we can do.
West Face of Snowpatch Spire in the Bugaboos, James Blench photo.
Guides and Guide Ratios:
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures is licensed by BC Parks to operate in this area. Our guides are certified by the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides whose 'terrain guidelines' we adhere to. Our ratios are outlined in the Climbing Routes section above.
Costs:
Hiring a Guide:
Before proceeding, we must mention that we run one Bugaboos Granite 5-day climbing program each season. This offers the opportunity to climb on the Spires for the lowest per person daily cost.
When hiring a guide you pay guide fees plus expenses. The guide fee is a daily rate, which varies according to the number of people per guide. Expenses you will incur include the cost of transportation for yourself and the guide to the Bugaboos, hut or camping fees and meals (for the guide also). We can customize a package for you that includes guide fees, guide expenses, and any extras such as meals, accommodation and rental gear.
GUIDE FEES
These are our basic fees. Surcharges apply to climbs that are unduly long or serious such as the Chouinard - Beckey route on South Howser Tower.
| Number in group | Per Person / day |
| 1 | $450 |
| 2 | $255 |
| 3 | $190 |
| 4 | $158 |
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The above prices do not include 5% GST (sales tax) or Gratuities |
|
OTHER EXPENSES to consider
Transportation
We do not usually supply transportation and you are responsible for the cost of the guide's transportation to the
area. We suggest you pick the guide up in Canmore on your way to the
Bugaboos. If the guide has to drive up there to meet you a
charge of $175 is applied. In the case where you cannot arrange
transportation we may be able to do this but the cost will be
substantial (more than the cost of a reasonable rental car taken from
the airport). In some cases we have arranged for helicopter transfers
from Calgary/Canmore to the Bugaboos.
The road into the park is a fairly well maintained logging road, however at certain times of year it can be difficult to traverse with a normal low clearance car. If renting a vehicle it is best to go with a full size, Mini-van or SUV with higher clearance. Overloading a small car is not recommended unless you allot for extra time on the drive in.
Accommodation
You are also responsible for accommodation costs. If you stay in the Conrad
Kain Hut the charge is $25 per night and the guide is free. Camping at
Appleby will cost c. $8 per person per night.
Conrad Kain Hut in the Bugaboos. James Blench photo.
Meals
Yamnuska can supply all your out-trip meals. Should you choose to
supply your own we charge you only for the cost of your guide's food.
In planning your menu we will need to know of any special dietary restrictions or preferences you may have (e.g. vegetarian) and of any allergies you may have (e.g. shellfish).
The following daily rates (GST not included) apply:
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Guide only: $25/day
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Guide plus 1 person: $80/day
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Guide plus 2 persons: $120/day
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Guide plus 3 persons: $160/day
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Guide plus 4 persons: $200/day
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Thereafter an extra $30/day/extra person.
Food charges will be prorated where less than 3 meals are supplied in a day. Included in the charge is supply of group cooking gear (stoves, pots & pans).
Gear
Group safety & technical gear (e.g. ropes & rack) is included in the guide fee. You will need to supply personal clothing and gear (e.g. ice axe, crampons, helmet & harness). Some of these items can be rented and the cost included in your package price.
Yamnuska has a full range of climbing and camping gear for rent.
Insurance
Please ensure that you are covered for the cost of evacuation or rescue should you fall ill or be injured. Most health benefit plans and some travel insurance policies do cover this. Otherwise, in the event that you need these services you may be liable for the cost. We can give you further information if necessary.
Should you take our optional cancellation penalty waiver cover you will be refunded in full or in part should you cancel this program due to illness/accident prior to or during the program.
Booking Information
We will supply you with a quote which will include all expenses such as meals, accommodation and rental gear when we know your requirements. Registration requires a deposit of one third of the quote or, for trips of three days or less, full payment. All guests must fill in an application form and an experience questionnaire. Please note that you will be required to sign our waiver before commencing the program. Please view our sample waiver copy. Experience Questionnaire
Balance of payment is required eight weeks before trip commencement. Should you cancel more than eight weeks in advance of trip, a $105 cancellation fee will apply. Cancellation between six and eight weeks before trip commencement will mean a loss of your deposit. Cancellation less than six weeks before trip commencement will result in a loss of all payments made.
We suggest you take cancellation insurance, this is available on booking and will cost 5% of total fee quoted.
For detailed booking instructions and conditions, click here.
If you need any rental gear please let us know early to ensure its availability.
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