Bugaboos Granite

Dates Price Instructors & Group Size Location Meeting Time & Place Agenda Our Approach Difficulty Transportation Accommodation & Meals Gear & Clothing Insurance How to Book

The 'Bugs' are one of North America's most famous climbing areas. This world renowned alpine paradise with its awesome granite spires, beautiful glaciers and lush green valleys, attracts alpinists from around the world. Why? The climbing. It's superlative!

The objective of this program is simple: climbing and instruction on the area's famous classic rock routes. In addition to Bugaboo, Pigeon and Snowpatch Spires, there are many enjoyable routes on other nearby spires.

For intermediate and advanced mountaineers.

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2010 Date

July 10 - 14

Private departures are available from late June to Early September. Please visit our Bugaboos Ascents page for more details.

Price

$1780 CDN covers guiding and instruction, hut fees, out-trip meals and use of specialized group climbing gear.

Not included: Canmore accommodation, Gratuities & Goods and Service Tax (GST)*. Cancellation insurance available for $90.

Optional pre and post trip accommodation packages are available from $80 per person per night for shared room lodging ($160 for single occupancy). Purchase with booking. Subject to availability.

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More climbing: Yamnuska guides and instructors are also available for private climbing in the Bugaboos and elsewhere before and after the program ... details .

* A 50% rebate of the GST is available to non-residents of Canada.

Instructors & Group Size

Maximum guide to guest ratio is 1:3 on easier routes then 1:2 on more difficult routes. The guides are enthusiastic and extremely talented, they hold guide certification from the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides and we are licensed to operate in the area by B.C. Parks. Maximum group size is 8.

Pigeon and Howser Spires in the Bugaboos

Location

The Bugaboos are a sub-group of the Purcell Mountains known for their distinctive spires. They are located west of the Columbia Valley and we reach them by driving west from Canmore to Radium Hot Springs then by driving along an improved logging road another 50km or so. Once at the end of the road we climb 3 hours to reach the Conrad Kain Hut which is located just below the Spires. This area is also famous for heliskiing in winter.

Meeting Time & Place

The program begins at the Yamnuska office at 7:30am on the first day. The Yamnuska office is located at 200, 50 Lincoln Park. See this map for location. If driving from British Columbia it may be easier for you to meet us at the Husky gas station in Radium Hot Springs instead. Be there and be ready to go by 10:00 am (MST). If meeting us there it is essential that you let us know in advance. The Husky station cannot be missed; it is at the junction of highways 93 and 95, right in Radium.

Program Agenda

Day 1: Meet in Canmore at 7:30 am (or at Radium Hot Springs at 10:00 am). Drive to Bugaboo Provincial Park (c. 3 hrs), then hike up to the Kain Hut (c. 3 hrs). You'll be blown away by the location. The hut sits perched high on a bench above Bugaboo Creek. Just to the east, the Bugaboo Glacier gouges past Marmolata Spire to plunge, in a broken frenzy of ice, to the valley floor. It's behind the hut though that the scene explodes, for dwarfing otherwise spectacular spires nearby are the huge granite walls of Snowpatch and Bugaboo Spires.

Day 2-5: Split into small groups based upon ability, experience and personal objectives.

Objectives may include but are not limited to:

Pigeon Spire: West Ridge (the best 5.4 route in North America!).
Bugaboo Spire: Kain Route (5.7), N.E. Ridge (5.8)
Snowpatch Spire: S.E. Corner (v. long 5.7), S.W. Corner (classic 5.9), Krauss-McCarthy (5.8), plus many other good routes
Crescent Spires: Lions Way (5.6), McTech Arete (5.10), Between the Ears (5.7)
There are also several other less known routes offering great climbing at different levels.

Our Approach: Guiding & Instruction

We have set up the guide ratios to allow us to adjust to your ability and personal objectives. You may prefer to just get out and climb or you may prefer a little more emphasis on instruction, either way our 'small team' approach will allow you to get the most out of your week. Climbs will be chosen to give you the right amount of challenge and to showcase the climbing the area has to offer.

The program objective is to provide the opportunity both to climb challenging routes for all levels of ability and to provide instruction in alpine rock techniques. Instruction will focus on those skills needed for safe, efficient travel over 3rd, 4th and 5th class terrain.

Climbing on Snowpatch Spire, the Bugaboos.

Climbing on Snowpatch Spire. James Blench photo.

Difficulty & Prerequisites

Participants need prior basic mountaineering and rock climbing experience. You must be fit and in good physical shape.

Transportation

Transportation to the Bugaboos is not included. We suggest that participants car pool. One option is to arrange to share in the cost of a rental car with others on the program. This may simplify transport to Canmore as well.

The 45 kilometer road into the park is a fairly well maintained logging road, however at certain times of year it can be difficult to traverse with a normal low clearance car. If renting a vehicle it is best to go with a full size car, Mini-van or SUV with higher clearance. Overloading a small car is not recommended unless you allot for extra time on the drive in.

Frequent shuttles connect Calgary International Airport and Canmore. Greyhound Bus Lines (1 800 661 8747) serves Canmore from points east and west along the Trans-Canada Highway. Call 609 8790, 609 0300, 609 1490 or 609 8505 for taxis in Canmore.

Accommodation & Meals

Conrad Kain Hut in the Bugaboos The Conrad Kain Hut, a large attractive hut in a spectacular position beneath the 'Spires', will be the accommodation for the course. Sleeping areas are shared with sleeping mats provided. There is propane and hydro from a small hydroelectric generator to provide power for cooking. You will need to bring a small sleeping bag. All meals, snacks and drinks are supplied from lunch on Day 1 to lunch on Day 5. Meal preparation and clean-up duties are shared between participants and instructors. Please let us know, well in advance, if you have any dietary restrictions.

Accommodation in Canmore is not included. For your convenience we can arrange bed and breakfast hotel rooms at $160 per night. These will be at the recommended Westridge Country Inn. Double or single occupancy, the cost is the same. For those wishing to defray this cost we will try to pair them with other participants. This accommodation can be booked with the trip online or by calling us. Subject to availability.

You can also make your own arrangements. Check our links page for a range of recommended Canmore accommodations. In addition the Alpine Club of Canada Clubhouse (403 678-3200) is a good hostel here in Canmore with nice facilities and reasonable prices.

Excess luggage can be left at your hotel or our office.

Clothing & Gear

We supply group climbing gear such as ropes & hardware but you must bring your own personal climbing gear (e.g. harness, helmet, ice axe), clothing and general equipment.

We can lend you personal climbing items except for boots and shoes for which a rental charge applies.

We do recommend that you bring 'rock shoes' in addition to mountaineering boots.

Make sure that you let us know, in advance, what you will need to borrow and to rent.

The equipment and clothing you bring with you will play a large role in the quality of your experience. Read the following suggestions and list carefully. If you have any questions or need clarification don't hesitate to call or email. There is room for substitution and changes but if you have any doubt do contact us.

CLOTHING LIST

We suggest layers of light, easily carried clothing that allows for fast and easy adjustment to best suit fast changing temperature conditions. We discourage cotton clothing as it causes rapid heat loss when wet. Feel free to call us if you have any questions about what to bring. This list covers items needed for all likely conditions during the mountaineering season. Your guide will go through your clothing and gear with you prior to the program.

You will need to bring:

LONG UNDERWEAR, top and bottom, polypro, wool, capilene or fleece.
WOOL/BLEND SOCKS (extra pairs).
Warm LONG PANTS to climb in. These could be windproof nylon/synthetic blend mountaineering pants, fleece pants, nylon exercise pants with light long johns or wool trousers.
Light SHIRT or T-SHIRT.
Wool or fleece LONG SLEEVE SHIRT with collar.
FLEECE SWEATER (medium weight).
Heavyweight fleece or insulated JACKET.
Cotton SHORTS.
Waterproof OUTER JACKET with hood (Gore-Tex).
Waterproof OUTER PANTS, preferably with side zips on legs.
Waterproof knee-length GAITERS that will fit over large boots .
Waterproof mountaineering GLOVES or wool / fleece mitts /gloves plus waterproof overmitts.
Wool / fleece HAT that covers your ears and fits under a helmet.
SUNHAT with wide brim.
NECK TUBE.
RUNNING SHOES (you may wear these on approach to hut and at the hut).

EQUIPMENT LIST

You will need to bring: (Items in blue are available to rent from Yamnuska, we can loan you the items in red). You must give us plenty of notice if wanting to rent or loan gear.

SLEEPING BAG. A summer bag is OK as the hut is reasonably warm. Make sure you bring a stuff sac that will reduce your bag to its minimum size (i.e. one with compression straps) so you don't use up all the room in your pack.
BACKPACK. Big enough to fit extra clothing, sleeping bag, share of food, and cooking gear. Internal frame packs are most comfortable. A 65-70 Liter pack is suitable.
LIGHTWEIGHT MOUNTAINEERING BOOTS. Ideally these should be light weight leather or synthetic mountaineering boots with either a semi-rigid or a rigid sole. It is possible to buy boots such as the La Sportiva "Trango" which is designed specifically for alpine rock and which can take a crampon. The disadvantage with this boot is that it is a specialist boot which is unsuitable for other types of mountaineering such as prolonged work on snow and ice. They will increase enjoyment on more technical rock. As always the most important feature of a mountaineering boot is comfort. Different brands seem to suit different feet. If buying, try a few different pairs and if they are not comfortable don't buy them. There are many good brands including: Asolo, Kayland, Koflach, la Sportiva and Scarpa.
ROCK SHOES. Comfort is essential as you will be wearing these for prolonged periods.
DAYPACK. Large enough to carry spare clothing, lunch, water and climbing gear.
ICE AXE, regular glacier axe minimum 55cm length.
CRAMPONS, must fit your boots.
SUNGLASSES with good UV protection, we suggest 'glacier glasses'.
Extra Strength SUN CREAM.
Lip Cream.
HEADLAMP with fresh batteries.
WATERBOTTLE (1L minimum).
POCKET KNIFE.
BLISTER KIT ('moleskin', 'Second Skin')
FIRST-AID Items (band-aids, ibuprofen & aspirin / Tylenol is enough as guides have a kit also).
CAMERA and spare film.
TREKKING POLE (S) (optional).
EAR PLUGS for dorm sleeping.
Music Player and or READING MATERIAL (optional of course).

OPTIONAL ITEMS

We supply the following items, but if you have your own, please feel free to bring along - Your rack, gear sling, nut pick, belay device, prussick slings, locking biners.

Insurance

Please ensure that you are covered for the cost of evacuation or rescue should you fall ill or be injured. Most health benefit plans and some travel insurance policies do cover this. Otherwise, in the event that you need these services you may be liable for the cost. We can give you further information if necessary.

Booking Information

Please book as early as practical to avoid disappointment. A deposit of $655 CDN (including GST) is required at time of booking. Final payment is due eight weeks before the start of the program. To avoid unnecessary cancellation penalties we suggest you take our cancellation insurance for an extra non-refundable $90, this can only be purchased at the time of booking.

For detailed booking instructions and conditions, click here.

Please note that you will be required to sign our waiver before commencing the program. Please view our sample waiver copy. We also request that you complete and return our on-line mountain experience questionnaire.