Intro to Alpine Ice at the Columbia Icefields

Dates Price Meeting Time & Place Location Our Approach and Objectives Curriculum Agenda Instructors & Group Size Difficulty and Prerequisites Transportation Accommodation & Meals Gear & Clothing Insurance How to Book

The great peaks of the Columbia Icefields rise abruptly next to the Banff-Jasper Parkway. Heavy glaciation means alpine ice climbing, not only for the experts challenging famous routes such as the 'Andromeda Strain' but also for those of us wishing to learn and to experience for the first time the visceral excitement that alpine ice provides. The icy peak of Athabasca is a great classroom and its steeper routes great finals for this program.

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2010 Dates

July 17 - 20

Price

$1210 CDN includes instruction, guides and use of technical climbing gear. Because we are based from the highway and several options are available, meals and accommodation are not included in this price. Cancellation insurance is recommended. This must be purchased on booking and is $60. GST is extra.

We can supply camping gear and food for you for an extra $275 plus tax.

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More climbing: Yamnuska guides and instructors are also available for private climbing after the program ... details .

Meeting Place & Time

The course meets at the Columbia Icefields Campground by the cooking shelters at 9:00am on Day One. Please be ready to go and have your gear handy so the instructors can check it with you.

The campground is located 1km north of the "Wilcox Creek" Campground, and 1km before the Icefields Centre (Hotel, Info Centre, etc).

Location

The course is based at the Columbia Icefields on the border of Banff and Jasper National Parks, 205 km northwest of Canmore. It is ideal as glaciers, snowfields and peaks are right next to the 'Icefields Parkway', the scenic road linking Banff and Jasper. This allows us to stay at local roadside campgrounds, hostels or hotels. On occasion the final couple of days may be spent attempting some of the north face routes near Lake Louise.

Alpine Ice at the Columbia Icefields

Alpine Ice Climbing

Our Approach: Objectives & Instruction

The objective of the course is to introduce you to the skills needed to climb steeper snow and ice routes than those encountered on beginner level courses. Many of the Rockies' best alpine snow and ice routes are found in this area and, whenever possible they will be incorporated into the program.

Many of the harder climbs in this area are quite long and can take up to 14 hours return; elevation gain is typically around 1450m or 4,800ft. We have found that the best approach is to alternate the longer days with shorter instruction days or shorter climbs. On instructional days we primarily cover topics specific to alpine ice climbing. If time permits we may be able to review general mountaineering topics with you.

Teaching on the 'instructional' days will be based on explanation and demonstration of techniques followed by ample opportunity to practice. These techniques will then be used on climbing days. On the climbing days our instructional approach evolves to one of "mentorship". This is where you learn by climbing with an expert who will impart his or her knowledge to you during the progress of the climb. This includes not only techniques but also the mental approach, drive, and judgment that fuel the successful mountaineer.

To give the best mountain experience and to enhance safety, instructor to participant ratios on climbing days are often 1:2 and do not exceed 1:3.

Curriculum

There is considerable flexibility built into the delivery of this program. Snow and weather conditions will dictate the order of presentation to a greater or lesser degree. It is planned that three of the course days will be climbing days where techniques learnt will be used during the ascent of actual snow and ice routes. Commonly climbed routes include the 'ice apron' on A2, Athabasca by 'Standard', 'Silverhorn', and North Face routes. Other routes climbed less frequently include Andromeda by the 'Skyladder'. It must be emphasized that participants will not be taken on climbs for which the instructors do not consider them ready or where conditions present undue hazard.

Core Topics include:

Ice Climbing Skills:
- Crampon use (flat point, front point, combined)
- Use of Ice Tools
- Movement techniques on low, moderate & steep ice
- Belaying on Ice
- Placing ice screws
- Anchor construction
- Placing protection
Belaying Skills:
- Belay devices and techniques
- Belay techniques for three-man ropes
Hazard Evaluation & Route Selection:
- Cornices, Seracs, Avalanche, Rock Fall, Bergshrunds

Sample Course Agenda

Day 1: Meet at 9.00am at Columbia Icefields campground, check equipment then head out to review mountaineering techniques and commence ice instruction.

Day 2: First climbing day. Perhaps climb 'Ice Apron' route on A2 (up to 8 hours).

Day 3: Second instruction with focus on anchors and protection on steep ice and snow.

Day 4: Depending entirely upon participant abilities, weather and conditions, a variety of climbs will be attempted. Typically these may include Athabasca 3491m (11,454 ft.) by both Silverhorn and North Face routes and Andromeda 3500m (11,483 ft.) by the North Face or "Skyladder" routes. Expect to be out for up to 14 hours. The course wraps up after the climb in late afternoon.

Weather Note

Like any alpine region, this area is subject to extreme weather conditions. On days where high climbs are not possible we will try to arrange instruction sessions.

Instructors & Group Size

Guide ratios will vary depending on the specific climb or activity. There will be a maximum 1:3 ratio on climbing days. Our personnel are qualified guides and assistant guides and are licensed to operate in the area by Parks Canada. The maximum group size is 12.

Difficulty, Fitness & Experience

Participants need prior mountaineering experience. In the context of the Yamnuska program this would be a minimum of 'Intro To Mountaineering' or a combination of 'Snow and Ice Long Weekend' and 'Basic', 'Advanced' or 'Ice Evolution'. Participants must be in really good physical shape as this is a very demanding and arduous program. Climbs are long and need stamina. We cannot guarantee to cater for those unable to handle this.

Transportation

The Icefields are located approximately 180 km north of Banff on highway 93 ("Icefields Parkway"). During the summer months the Icefields are serviced by daily bus from Banff and Jasper (Brewster's, 403 762 6700, 1 866 606 6700). The bus from Banff to the Icefields departs at 3:15pm each day. They also provide a service to Banff/Canmore/Lake Louise from downtown Calgary. The Banff Airporter supplies the best service to Canmore and Banff from the Calgary Airport.

It is necessary to drive a short distance each day between accommodations and climbing areas. Transport is not included. If you can give someone a ride or if you want a ride let us know and we can put other participants in touch with you. Sharing a rental car with other participants is also a good option.

For those flying here for the program we recommend flying to Calgary International and renting a car (major agencies). This will allow you to take your time getting to the Icefields so you can check out Canmore and Banff en-route as well as allowing you to check out the Icefields area (Jasper etc.) in the evenings. We can put you in touch with other guests who may be interested in sharing the cost of this option.

Accommodation and Meals

Meals and accommodation are not included in the basic price. If you would like us to organize this we will do so for a charge of $275 plus GST to cover group camping gear, camp fees and meals (more information below). Otherwise you can make your own arrangements.

You will need to bring a lunch and snack food with you each day. Bring plenty of high-energy snacks. Particularly on cold days, we may not stop for long lunch breaks opting for more frequent short snack breaks instead. You will also need to bring plenty of liquids, especially on the peak days.

There are several options available. The instructors and most climbers stay at the "Icefields Campground". Your choices include:

Camping: There are two campgrounds in the area. Most climbers use the "Columbia Icefields Campground", which is a first come, first serve system. In peak summer, it can be hard to find a place if you arrive late in the day. It will cost around $16/day/tent site (cash only, no credit cards accepted). The other campground nearby is "Wilcox Creek" for RVs.
The Icefields Chalet Hotel: If interested in more upscale living conditions then try this brand-new hotel. To book call 1 877 423-7433. If staying at the Hotel you will need to bring your own breakfast supplies for the ascent days as the Hotel restaurant will not be open early enough in the morning.
Hostels: There are a couple of rustic hostels operated by Hostelling International within a 45 minute drive of the Icefields. Beauty Creek Hostel is quite a bit closer than Rampart Creek Hostel. They will cost you around $25/night. You can make reservations by calling 1 866 762 4122.

If wanting to stay in Canmore or Banff before or after the course check our LINKS page for accommodation options.

Accommodation & Meal Package

If you like, we can include you in the camping and food arrangements we make for our guides/instructors. This will cost an additional $275 plus GST.

This fee covers:

Tents (shared, double occupancy) and camping fees;
Food from lunch on Day 1 to lunch on Day 4;
Plates and cutlery.

The guides will be in charge of food, but all meals will be prepared collectively and your assistance with this is expected. If you decide to take this package you will need to bring the following items. We can rent you a sleeping bag and 'Thermarest' sleeping mat.

SLEEPING BAG (3 season)

SLEEPING MAT

PILLOW (optional)

If choosing this package we will also need to know, well in advance, if you have any dietary restrictions. Food Questionnaire.

Equipment and Clothing

We supply group climbing gear such as ropes & hardware but you must bring your own personal climbing gear (e.g. harness, helmet, ice axe), clothing and general equipment.

We can lend you personal climbing items except for boots for which a rental charge applies.

Make sure that you let us know, in advance, what you will need to borrow and to rent.

The equipment and clothing you bring to this program will have a big impact upon the quality of your experience. Please be sure to bring all items requested. If you are unsure about anything please do not hesitate to call and ask us.

CLOTHING LIST

We suggest layers of light, easily carried clothing that allow for fast and easy adjustment to best suit fast changing temperature conditions. We discourage cotton clothing as it causes rapid heat loss when wet. Feel free to call us if you have any questions about what to bring. This list covers items needed for all likely conditions during the mountaineering season. Your guide will go through your clothing and gear with you prior to the course.

You will need to bring:

LONG UNDERWEAR, top and bottom, polypro, wool, capilene or fleece.
WOOL/BLEND SOCKS (extra pairs).
Warm LONG PANTS to climb in. These could be windproof nylon/synthetic blend mountaineering pants, fleece pants, nylon exercise pants with light long johns or wool trousers.
Light SHIRT or T-SHIRT.
Wool or fleece LONG SLEEVE SHIRT with collar.
FLEECE SWEATER (medium weight).
Heavyweight fleece or insulated JACKET.
Extra sweater or fleece jacket or light down jacket or vest.
Waterproof OUTER JACKET with hood (Gore-Tex).
Waterproof OUTER PANTS, preferably with side zips on legs.
Waterproof knee-length GAITERS that will fit over large boots .
Waterproof mountaineering GLOVES or wool / fleece mitts /gloves plus waterproof overmitts.
Wool / fleece HAT that covers your ears and fits under a helmet.
SUNHAT with wide brim.
NECK TUBE
Lighter casual clothes and running shoes to wear around camp.

EQUIPMENT LIST

You will need to bring: (Items in blue are available to rent from Yamnuska, we can loan you the items in red). You must give us plenty of notice if wanting to rent or loan gear.

MOUNTAINEERING BOOTS: You will need mountaineering boots with rigid soles designed specifically for this use. Mountaineering boots are made from leather or plastic. The most important feature of a mountaineering boot is comfort. Different brands seem to suit different feet. If buying, try a few different pairs and if they are not comfortable don't buy them. There are many good brands including: Asolo, Kayland, Koflach, la Sportiva and Scarpa.
LARGE DAYPACK. Big enough to carry spare clothing, lunch, water and climbing gear.
ICE AXE with curved pick (55cm length good for alpine ice).
CRAMPONS (must fit your boots or easily be adjustable).
ICE CLIMBING TOOL(S) pref. with at least 1 hammer head.
HARNESS sit harness preferred.
HELMET.
SUNGLASSES with good UV protection, we suggest 'glacier glasses'.
Extra Strength SUN CREAM.
Lip Cream.
HEADLAMP with fresh batteries and spares.
WATER BOTTLE 2 wide mouth Nalgene Liter bottles or equivalent.
POCKET KNIFE.
BLISTER KIT ('moleskin', 'Second Skin')
FIRST-AID Items (band-aids, ibuprofen & Aspirin/Tylenol is enough as guides have a kit also).
CAMERA and spare film.
TREKKING POLE (S) (optional).
DUFFEL BAG for camp storage.

OPTIONAL ITEMS

We supply the following items but you can bring your own if you like:

ICE SCREWS
CARABINERS
PRUSSIC SLINGS
TAPE SLINGS
BELAY/RAPPEL DEVICE

Contact Yamnuska with clothing & gear questions

Insurance

There is no charge for rescue so long as you have a valid National Park Entry Pass (purchase on entry to Park). However, it is wise to ensure that your health plan will cover you in case of illness or accident during your visit to the Rockies. Obtain extra coverage if necessary.

Booking Information

Please book as early as practical to avoid disappointment. We require a $445 CDN deposit including GST. Final payment is due eight weeks before the start of the program. To avoid unnecessary cancellation penalties we suggest you take our cancellation insurance for an extra, non-refundable $60. This must accompany your deposit.

If you would like the accommodation & food package please request when booking. Payment for this is due with the balance of course fees eight weeks before the start of the program. Please read the information on booking conditions and cancellation penalties carefully before booking.

For detailed booking instructions and conditions, click here.

Please note that you will be required to sign our waiver before commencing the course. Please view our sample waiver copy. We also request that you complete and return our on-line mountain experience questionnaire.