Mixed Ice Climbing

Dates Price Meeting Details Agenda Instructors & Group Size Difficulty & Prerequisites Transport Local Accommodation & Meals Equipment & Clothing Insurance How to Book

Mixed climbing has emerged as the new frontier of technical climbing.

Climbing on rock and ice using ice tools in a method known as 'dry tooling', there are some amazing routes are being done.

The Canadian Rockies, within daily driving distance of Canmore, has become a hotbed of mixed climbing with climbers from around the world visiting to try their skills on test pieces such as 'Musashi'.

Success on mixed climbs, even more than on regular ice climbs, depends on really good movement skills. Development of these skills is the primary objective of this mixed climbing camp.

In addition to intensive coaching on movement skills there will be instruction and review of all other aspects of mixed climbing.

Yamnuska's guides are at the cutting edge of mixed climbing and in addition to having guide certification, these individuals are also excellent coaches. You're not paying to see the instructors climb well, you are paying to learn to climb well yourself!

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Dates Winter 2009 / 2010

December 19 - 20

Price

$350 CDN covers instruction and use of technical gear. Accommodation and meals are not included but low cost, easy options exist which we can which we can tell you about. Cancellation insurance is available for $19.00. GST not included.

More climbing: Yamnuska Guides and Instructors are also available for private climbs after the program ... details .

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Meeting Time and Place

The course begins at the Yamnuska office at 8.00am on the first day of the program. The Yamnuska office is located at 200, 50 Lincoln Park. See this map for location.

Mixed Climbing Camp Agenda

Saturday: 8:00am At Yamnuska Office & Local Climbing Area

Welcome, introduction, goals and agenda.
Issue and adjust gear.
Head to climbing area.

After setting up top ropes on various climbs we will address the following:

Review of safety measures (belaying etc)
Specialized use of crampons and ice tools
Movement skills and techniques

Our approach will be to explain, demonstrate then practice with coaching. This will take most of the day. Wrap up around 4.00pm then return to Canmore.

Saturday evening there will be the option of a mixed climbing slideshow.

Sunday: At Local Climbing Area

Continue technical climbing and coaching on more advanced climbs

Lead skills
Gear to use
Clipping bolts
Placing trad pro
Assessing risk

Instructors & Group Size

SEAN ISAAC

Sean Isaac pursues the adventure and exploration aspect of climbing with a passion for new routes and traveling the world. He has completed 14 major mountain expeditions in the past 8 years forging new routes up remote and obscure alpine peaks in all corners of the globe, including: Patagonia, Kyrgyzstan, Alaska, Northwest Territories, Peru and Pakistan.

Sean is the author of "Mixed Climbing in the Canadian Rockies" (Rocky Mountain Books) as well as the only instructional book dedicated solely to mixed climbing, "Mixed Climbing" (Falcon Books).

Sean has established over 60 new mixed routes ranging from desperate single-pitch drytool roofs like Phyllis Diller (M11) to multi-pitch monstrosities like Cryophobia (V M8+ WI5+, 240m) with Shawn Huisman.

Instructor ratios will vary during the program from 1:6 on down.

Difficulty & Prerequisites

You need to have previous rock and ice experience. In the Yamnuska context a minimum of Basic Rock and Basic Ice or equivalents. This program is physically demanding and a high level of fitness will contribute to enjoyment and achievement.

Transportation

To keep prices down participants are responsible for their own transport to Canmore and during the program. Canmore is a 1hour (100km) drive west from Calgary.

If you are flying from afar for the program we suggest that you rent a car for your visit. In addition to getting you to the climbing locations it will allow you to explore our region a bit after program hours. For example you can visit Banff and enjoy the hot pools and sample the numerous restaurants. If you want we can put other participants in touch with you who may be interested in sharing the cost of a rental car or who may be willing to use their vehicles in a car pool.

When booking please indicate if you are bringing a vehicle and, if so, whether your are willing or not to give other participants or instructors a ride in a car pool. If you are not driving here please indicate if you'd be willing to share the cost of a rental car or if you would prefer to car pool.

Frequent shuttles connect Calgary International Airport and Canmore. Greyhound Bus Lines (1 800 661 8747) serves Canmore from points east and west along the Trans-Canada Highway. Call 609 0300, 609 1490 or 609 8897 for taxis in Canmore.

Accommodation & Meals

These are your responsibility. There are lots of options available including campgrounds, hostels, B'n'Bs, motels and hotels! Check accommodation options on our links page for our recommendations. The Alpine Club Clubhouse (403 678 3200) is a good hostel here in Canmore with good facilities and reasonable prices.

Food is not supplied. You will need lunch and something to drink each day. Each day bring plenty to drink and a lunch plus energy snacks. We particularly suggest bringing a Thermos and hot drink.

Equipment & Clothing

The course fee includes use of technical gear although you should feel free to bring any gear you already have.

Equipment List

We suggest you bring:

Boots, double plastic mountaineering boots*
Daypack (large enough for spare clothing, your lunch & climbing gear e.g. rope & crampons)
Crampons* (must fit your boots or be easily adjustable)
Climbing Harness*
Climbing Helmet*
Ice Tools (2)*
Belay Device/Descender*

*We can loan you these but you must advise us in advance that you need them.

Sunglasses
Thermos flask and/or water bottle (full!)
Sun cream
Pocket knife

Mountaineering Boots

Yamnuska has double plastic mountaineering boots which you are welcome to use. If needing these please let us know when you register. Please also give us your boot size.

Clothing List

There can be prolonged periods of inactivity in very cold temperatures. Don't be afraid to bring too much! We suggest bringing light clothing of varying thickness that can be 'layered' to achieve comfort and versatility. The most important consideration for clothing is the ability to regulate temperature as you change from periods of activity to periods of rest. We discourage cotton clothing as it causes rapid heat loss when wet.

We suggest you bring:

Long underwear (top & bottom), polypro, wool or fleece
Warm pants (pref. insulated or fleece)
Warm shirt (not cotton)
Sweater (medium or lightweight)
Fleece Jacket (heavyweight)
Insulated jacket or vest
Waterproof jacket with hood (Gore-Tex or nylon)
Waterproof pants (Gore-Tex or nylon)
2 sets Socks (wool outer & polypro liner)
Wool or fleece hat that will cover ears & fit under helmet
Waterproof climbing gloves &/or mitts plus spares
Knee-length Gaiters
Neck tube

Insurance

There is no charge for rescue. If we climb in Banff National Park you will need a day entry pass (c.$9) to qualify for free rescue. This pass can be obtained when you enter the Park. It is wise, though to ensure that your health plan will cover you in case of illness or accident whilst here.

Booking Information

Please book as early as practical to avoid disappointment. We require full payment on booking. To avoid unnecessary cancellation penalties we suggest you take our cancellation insurance ($19), this must accompany your payment.

Detailed booking instructions and conditions.

Please note that you will be required to sign our waiver before commencing the course. Please view our sample waiver copy.

We also ask that you complete our experience questionnaire, click here.