Advanced Ice Systems

Dates Price Meeting Details Location Agenda Instructors & Group Size Difficulty & Prerequisites Transport Local Accommodation & Meals Equipment & Clothing Insurance How to Book

Leading and seconding on harder climbs demands more advanced skills. It's essential to be able to construct 'bombproof' anchors and to place solid 'pro'. Climbing multi-pitch routes demands careful rope control and route planning so as to enhance speed. The objective of our Canadian Rockies 'Advanced Ice Systems' course is to work on advanced rope systems, especially on anchor construction and on placing protection and to introduce lead-climbing tactics along with coaching on steep ice climbing techniques.

In addition to taking this program check out the 'Plus Days' add-on option for a day of advanced climbing (with a 1:2 instructor ratio) on an advanced multi-pitch climb!

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Dates Winter 2009 / 2010

December 12 - 13; January 23 - 24; February 27 - 28

Price

$315 covers instruction and use of technical gear, including boots. Accommodation and meals are not included but low cost, easy options exist which we can tell you about. Cancellation insurance is available for $18. GST not included.

Optional PLUS DAY: $240 plus GST. Every Monday following 'Advanced Ice Systems'. Available to Advanced Ice Systems participants only. Cancellation coverage $13.

More climbing: Yamnuska Guides and Instructors are also available for private climbs after the program ... details .

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Meeting Time and Place

The course begins at the Yamnuska office at 8.00am on the Saturday morning. The Yamnuska office is located at 200, 50 Lincoln Park, Canmore. See this map for location.

Advanced Ice Climbing Course Agenda

More coaching! Bryce Jardine Photo Saturday: 8:00am At Yamnuska Office & Local Climbing Area

Welcome, introduction, goals and agenda
Knots and Harnesses
Adjust crampons and check gear
Ice bouldering and technique review
Placement and analysis of ice screws and other anchoring devices ('abalakovs')
Belaying review, 'Sling-shot' top rope review
Placement of screws on steep terrain
Anchor demonstration

Sunday: At Local Climbing Area

Bouldering warm-up
Set up anchors with assessment by instructors
How to place pro on lead
Simulated leads (on top rope)
Intro to Mixed climbing if time permits

Advanced Ice Systems 'Plus Days'

Stay for an extra day after 'Advanced Ice Systems' and join the instructors on an advanced multi-pitch climb. The instructor to student ratio is 1:2.

$240 plus GST. Every Monday following 'Advanced Ice Systems'. Available to course participants only. Cancellation coverage $13.

More climbing: Yamnuska Guides and Instructors are also available for private climbs after the program ... details .

Ice Climbing Locations

We use a variety of locations in the Canadian Rockies on this program. These may include the Canmore 'Junkyards', Johnston's Canyon, Haffner Creek and Lake Louise on the first two days, 'Professors', The Field area, Lake Louise are among options for the final day if you are taking the Plus Day.

Instructors & Group Size

The "Yam Ice Team" includes most of the best climbers and instructors anywhere! Enthusiastic and extremely talented, they hold climbing certification from the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides and from other International Federation of Mountain Guide Association (IFMGA) countries. Your safety and enjoyment are paramount to them. There will be a maximum of 12 students, a minimum of 4. Instructor/student ratios range down from 1:6.

The "Yam Ice Team" includes Jason Billings, Steve Blagbrough, Barry Blanchard, James Blench, Pat Delaney, Jesse De Montigny, Sarah Hueniken, Sean Isaac, Grant Meekins, Nick Sharpe, Mike Stuart and Mike Trehearne.

Difficulty & Prerequisites

You need 'Basic Ice' or equivalent and some further personal experience. You need to be comfortable seconding easy grade 4 ice.

Transportation

To keep prices down participants are responsible for their own transport to Canmore and during the program. Canmore is a 1hour (100km) drive west from Calgary.

If you are flying from afar for the program we suggest that you rent a car for your visit. In addition to getting you to the climbing locations it will allow you to explore our region a bit after program hours. For example you can visit Banff and enjoy the hot pools and sample the numerous restaurants. If you want we can put other participants in touch with you who may be interested in sharing the cost of a rental car or who may be willing to use their vehicles in a car pool.

When booking please indicate if you are bringing a vehicle and, if so, whether your are willing or not to give other participants or instructors a ride in a car pool. If you are not driving here please indicate if you'd be willing to share the cost of a rental car or if you would prefer to car pool.

Frequent shuttles connect Calgary International Airport and Canmore. Greyhound Bus Lines (1 800 661 8747) serves Canmore from points east and west along the Trans-Canada Highway. Call 403 609 0300, 403 609 1490 or 403 609 8897 for taxis in Canmore.

Accommodation & Meals

These are your responsibility. There are lots of options available including campgrounds, hostels, B'n'Bs, motels and hotels! Check accommodation options on our links page for our recommendations. The Alpine Club Clubhouse (403 678 3200) is a good hostel here in Canmore with good facilities and reasonable prices.

Food is not supplied. You will need lunch and something to drink each day. Each day bring plenty to drink and a lunch plus energy snacks. We particularly suggest bringing a Thermos and hot drink.

Equipment & Clothing

The course fee includes use of technical gear although you should feel free to bring any gear you already have.

Equipment List

We suggest you bring:

Boots, double plastic mountaineering boots*
Daypack (large enough for spare clothing, your lunch & climbing gear e.g. rope & crampons)
Crampons* (must fit your boots or be easily adjustable)
Climbing Harness*
Climbing Helmet*
Ice Tools (2)*
Belay Device/Descender*

*We can loan you these but you must advise us in advance that you need them.

Sunglasses
Thermos flask and/or water bottle (full!)
Sun cream
Pocket knife

Mountaineering Boots

Yamnuska has double plastic mountaineering boots which you are welcome to use. If needing these please let us know when you register. Please also give us your boot size.

Clothing List

There can be prolonged periods of inactivity in very cold temperatures. Don't be afraid to bring too much! We suggest bringing light clothing of varying thickness that can be 'layered' to achieve comfort and versatility. The most important consideration for clothing is the ability to regulate temperature as you change from periods of activity to periods of rest. We discourage cotton clothing as it causes rapid heat loss when wet.

We suggest you bring:

Long underwear (top & bottom), polypro, wool or fleece
Warm pants (pref. insulated or fleece)
Warm shirt (not cotton)
Sweater (medium or lightweight)
Fleece Jacket (heavyweight)
Insulated jacket or vest
Waterproof jacket with hood (Gore-Tex or nylon)
Waterproof pants (Gore-Tex or nylon)
2 sets Socks (wool outer & polypro liner)
Wool or fleece hat that will cover ears & fit under helmet
Waterproof climbing gloves &/or mitts plus spares
Knee-length Gaiters
Neck tube

Insurance

There is no charge for rescue. If we climb in Banff National Park you will need a day entry pass (c.$9) to qualify for free rescue. This pass can be obtained when you enter the Park. It is wise, though to ensure that your health plan will cover you in case of illness or accident whilst here.

Booking Information

Please book as early as practical to avoid disappointment. We require full payment on booking. To avoid unnecessary cancellation penalties we suggest you take our cancellation insurance ($18), this must accompany your payment.

Detailed booking instructions and conditions.

Please note that you will be required to sign our waiver before commencing the course. Please view our sample waiver copy.